This article is part of our Summer reads series. Visit the full collection for book lists, guest essays and more seasonal distractions.
本文是我们夏季阅读系列的一部分。请访问完整的收藏品以获取书籍清单，来宾论文和更多季节性干扰。
This article appeared in the United States section of the print edition under the headline “Land of the fat”
本文出现在印刷版的美国部分，标题为“脂肪之地”
