A gaggle of Western tourists sun themselves on a crowded café pavement in the heart of Baghdad. Hotel lobbies bustle with businessmen from China. Spectators pack the reopened horse racecourse. After a 20-year hiatus, cranes are in action building malls and housing estates. Normality, or at least a version of it, is returning to Iraq. What is less normal is that many of the bulldozers and tractors bear the rifle-and-bullet insignia of the Hashd al-Shaabi, an umbrella group of government-funded, Iran-backed Shia militias.
一群西方游客在巴格达心脏地带的拥挤的咖啡馆人行道上晒太阳。酒店游说来自中国的商人。观众打包了重新开放的马赛马场。经过20年的休假后,起重机正在制造购物中心和住房庄园。正常性或至少一个版本正在返回伊拉克。不太正常的是,许多推土机和拖拉机都带有一支由政府资助的,由伊朗支持的什叶派民兵组成的伞形的烟囱徽章。