The bride had to do just one last thing before she walked down the aisle. “I currently am in the bathroom in my wedding dress I asked everyone for just a few mins alone so that I could message you this.” Was she writing to an estranged friend? An old lover—the one that got away?
新娘在走过过道之前只需要做最后一件事。“我目前穿着婚纱的浴室里,我只问每个人只有几分钟,这样我就可以给你发消息。”她写信给一个疏远的朋友吗?一个老情人 - 逃脱的人?
At the beginning of her “journey,” the bride weighed 134 pounds. “My goal was to just lose 5lbs,” she wrote, but she had somehow dropped down to 110. “I’m crying writing this because I have never felt so healthy and confident. THANK YOU!!!” The message was accompanied by two photos—a before and an after. The first shows a thin woman who looks to be a size 2 or 4. In the second, the woman’s bones are visible beneath her skin, and her leggings sag. She owed all of this to Liv Schmidt, a 23-year-old influencer known for her harsh, no-bullshit approach to staying thin. “You feel like a best friend and sister to me,” the bride wrote to Schmidt, who shared the message on Instagram.
在她的“旅程”开始时,新娘重134磅。她写道:“我的目标是减掉5磅,但她以某种方式下降到110。“我在写这篇文章,因为我从未感到如此健康和自信。谢谢!!!”该消息伴随着两张照片 - 之前和之后。第一个显示一个瘦女人,看上去是2或4的尺寸。在第二个女人的皮肤下,女人的骨头在她的皮肤下可见,绑腿下垂。她欠了所有这一切,这是一位23岁的有影响力的人丽夫·施密特(Liv Schmidt),以其苛刻的,无刺的方法而闻名。新娘写信给施密特,他在Instagram上分享了这一消息,“你觉得自己是我的最好的朋友和姐姐。”
Schmidt is the queen of SkinnyTok—a corner of the internet where thin, mostly white women try to make America skinny again. Her “what I eat in a day to stay skinny” videos thrust her into virality about a year ago. There she is with her mint tea—which she always drinks before eating anything, to check if she’s really hungry or just bored—or a mile-high ice-cream sundae that she’ll take three bites of before tossing. She’s very clear: She stays skinny by not eating much. Many find this refreshingly honest. Others think she’s promoting eating disorders.
施密特(Schmidt)是Skinnytok的女王,这是互联网的角落,那里的白人妇女大多试图使美国再次瘦。大约一年前,她的“我一天中我吃的东西保持瘦”的视频使她陷入了病毒状态。她在那里搭配薄荷茶(在吃任何东西之前总是喝酒,检查她真的很饿还是很无聊),或者是一英里高的冰淇淋圣代,她会在扔三咬一下。她很清楚:不吃太多东西,她会保持瘦身。许多人认为这令人耳目一新。其他人则认为她正在促进饮食失调。
Influencers have condemned her; magazines have published scathing critiques. Last month, Meta removed her ability to sell subscriptions ($20 a month for access to private content and a group chat called the “Skinni Société”) on Instagram, and this month, TikTok banned the SkinnyTok hashtag worldwide, saying it was “linked to unhealthy weight loss content.” And in response, the right has championed Schmidt. She has been canceled, and she may be more powerful than ever.
有影响力的人谴责了她。杂志发表了严厉的批评。上个月,梅塔(Meta)删除了她在Instagram上出售订阅(每月20美元的私人内容访问$ 20和一个称为“ Skinnisociété”的小组聊天)的能力,本月,Tiktok在全球范围内禁止了Skinnytok Hashtag,称其“与不健康的减肥内容链接”。作为回应,右派倡导了施密特。她被取消了,她可能比以往任何时候都更强大。
I didn’t mean to join the legions of young women on SkinnyTok. It happened fast. I liked an Instagram reel about an “Easy High Protein, Low Calorie Breakfast.” What I got next, I didn’t ask for. Within hours, my Instagram “explore” page was flooded with videos of conventionally pretty, thin women preaching one message: Stop eating. Phrases such as “You’re not a dog, don’t treat yourself with food” and the Kate Moss classic, “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels,” began to flood my feed—and my subconscious.
我并不是要加入Skinnytok的年轻女子。它发生了很快。我喜欢Instagram卷轴,讲述“轻松的高蛋白质,低卡路里的早餐”。我接下来得到的,我没有要求。几个小时之内,我的Instagram“探索”页面充斥着传统上漂亮,瘦弱的女人传讲一条消息的视频:停止进食。诸如“您不是狗,不要用食物对待自己”和凯特·莫斯(Kate Moss)经典之类的短语“没有什么比瘦的感觉好”,开始淹没我的饲料,以及我的潜意识。
At lunch with a friend one Saturday, I didn’t finish my salad. “Do you know Liv Schmidt?” I asked.
一个星期六和一个朋友午餐时,我没有完成沙拉。“你知道利夫·施密特吗?”我问。
“The three-bite rule? Of course I do. She’s kind of a genius.”
“三咬法则?我当然要做。她是个天才。”
I realized I wasn’t down this rabbit hole alone.
我意识到我并不是一个人陷入困境。
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“I know the advice I’m getting from these women is not healthy,” another friend said, but “everything I want is on the other side of being skinny, and these women are going to help me get there.”
另一位朋友说:“我知道我从这些女人那里得到的建议是不健康的,但是我想要的一切都在瘦的另一面,这些女人将帮助我到达那里。”
“I like SkinnyTok. It helps me to not eat ‘the extra thing’ I don’t need. Don’t like it? Don’t follow it.”
“我喜欢Skinnytok。这有助于我不吃我不需要的'额外东西'。不喜欢它吗?不要跟随它。”
“It’s internalized misogynistic brainwash!”
“这是内在的厌恶女性的洗脑!”
“I love that skinny bitch.”
“我喜欢那个瘦的bit子。”
Where had Schmidt come from, and what had happened to the “body positivity” movement that had been so loudly touted through the past decade?
施密特来自哪里,在过去十年中大声吹捧的“身体积极性”运动发生了什么?
You can form a community around anything online. When I was a kid in the 2000s, teenage girls with eating disorders were gathering on “thinspiration” websites, where they could exchange tips. Tabloids sold copies off body shaming—one day Britney Spears was too fat; the next, Lindsay Lohan was too skinny—and my friends and I were going around with 100-calorie Chips Ahoy! packs in our lunchboxes. By the time I was a teenager, the body-positivity movement had arrived, promising to change the culture. Plus-size models started appearing in ad campaigns. The problem wasn’t women’s bodies, activists argued, but women feeling bad about their bodies.
您可以围绕在线任何事物组成一个社区。当我在2000年代还是个孩子的时候,饮食失调的十几岁女孩聚集在“ Thinspiration”网站上,他们可以在这里交换技巧。小报卖掉了身体羞辱的副本 - 一天的布兰妮·斯皮尔斯(Britney Spears)太胖了;接下来,Lindsay Lohan太瘦了 - 我和我的朋友们和100卡路里的筹码一起走了!包装在我们的午餐盒中。到我十几岁的时候,身体积极性运动已经到来,承诺改变文化。大码模型开始出现在广告活动中。活动家认为,问题不是妇女的身体,而是对自己的身体感到难过的女性。
Yet when people tried to force society to embrace new body norms, society lashed out, bringing to the surface a lot of underlying hatred. “Body positivity didn’t resonate with a lot of people, because it felt like lying,” Maalvika Bhat, a 25-year-old TikTok influencer who is getting a doctorate in computer science and communication at Northwestern University, told me. Many felt that the movement was in denial about both the practical health risks of being overweight and America’s willingness to put its ingrained fat phobia aside.
然而,当人们试图迫使社会拥抱新的身体规范时,社会猛烈抨击,使许多基本的仇恨浮出水面。“身体积极性并没有引起很多人的共鸣,因为感觉就像是在说谎,” 25岁的Tiktok影响者Maalvika Bhat告诉我,他正在西北大学获得计算机科学和传播博士学位。许多人认为该运动否认了超重的实际健康风险,也否认了美国愿意将其根深蒂固的脂肪恐惧症抛在一边。
Ozempic has accelerated that backlash against body positivity. Many of the plus-size leaders of the body-positivity movement shut up and shrank down. Their followers noticed that they were using a weight-loss drug. Apparently you didn’t have to love yourself as you were—and you didn’t have to suffer to change, either. You just had to have a prescription and enough money to pay for it.
Ozempic加速了反对身体阳性的反弹。身体阳性运动的许多大尺寸领导者闭嘴并缩小了。他们的追随者注意到他们正在使用减肥药。显然,您不必像以前那样爱自己,而且您也不必遭受改变。您只需要有处方和足够的钱才能为此付出代价。
But what about those pesky last 10 pounds, the difference between being a size 6 and a size 2? Although some healthy-weight women with no medical reason to take GLP-1 drugs have nonetheless found work-arounds to get their hands on the medication, most aren’t going to those lengths. How would they keep up now that skinny was back? For some, the answer was SkinnyTok.
但是,那些讨厌的持续10磅,是6号和2号尺寸的差异呢?尽管一些没有医学理由服用GLP-1药物的健康体重女性仍然发现了工作障碍以获取药物治疗,但大多数人都不会遵守这些长度。瘦又回来了,他们将如何跟上?对于某些人来说,答案是Skinnytok。
You don’t need a prescription to be ultrathin. You just need a bad relationship with food, fueled by a skinny stranger yelling mean-girl mantras at you. In the end, the body-positivity movement’s lasting effect may have been to prove the validity of the very message it was trying to combat—that thinner people are treated better. At least, many women feel, SkinnyTok is telling them the truth. As one SkinnyTok influencer put it, “Don’t sugarcoat that or you’ll eat that too.”
您不需要处方即可超然。您只需要与食物的不良关系,这是一个瘦陌生人大喊大叫的卑鄙的咒语。最后,身体阳性运动的持久效果可能是证明它试图打击的信息的有效性 - 更瘦的人得到了更好的对待。至少,许多女人感到,Skinnytok告诉她们的真相。正如一个瘦弱的影响者所说:“不要糖衣,否则您也会吃它。”
I started listening more closely to the SkinnyTok videos. They weren’t just about self-deprivation. They were about being classy. They were about being a lady—the right kind of woman, one that men drool over. They were, most importantly, about being small.
我开始更仔细地聆听Skinnytok视频。他们不仅仅是自我剥夺。他们是要优雅。他们是要成为一位女士 - 正确的女人,男人流口水。最重要的是,他们是小小的。
In one of Schmidt’s videos, she’s approached by a man in a black car during a photo shoot. The caption reads: “This is the treatment Skinni gets you. Was just taking pics … Then a Rolls-Royce rolled up begging for my number like I’m on the menu mid photo. He saw clavicle he swerved. He saw cheekbones lost composure.”
在施密特的一部视频中,她在拍摄照片中遇到了一个黑色汽车的男人。标题上写着:“这是Skinni的治疗方法。
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SkinnyTok influencers basically never talk in their videos about politics. They aren’t preaching about Donald Trump—let alone about issues such as abortion or immigration. And yet everything they talk about—the emphasis on girls and how girls need to behave and how small they need to be—is, of course, political.
Skinnytok的影响者基本上从未在他们的视频中谈论政治。他们并没有向唐纳德·特朗普(Donald Trump)宣讲,这是一个人,诸如堕胎或移民之类的问题。然而,他们谈论的一切 - 重点是女孩,女孩需要如何表现以及他们需要多大的小事 - 当然是政治性的。
A few days after my Instagram feed surrendered to the SkinnyTok takeover, the tradwife content began to sneak in. Beautiful women baking bread in linen dresses spoke to me about embracing my divine femininity. I should consider “softer living” and “embracing my natural role.” All of a sudden, I wondered whether I, a single woman in her late 20s living in Manhattan, should trade it all in to become a mother of 10 on a farm in Montana.
在我的Instagram提要投降给Skinnytok Takeover的几天后,tradwife的内容开始潜入。我应该考虑“柔和的生活”和“拥抱我的自然角色”。突然之间,我想知道我是否是一个二十多岁的单身妇女,住在曼哈顿,应该将其全部贸易成为蒙大拿州的一个农场的10个母亲。
Watch a few more of these videos, and soon you’ll be directed to the anti-vax moms, or the Turning Point USA sweetheart Alex Clark’s wellness podcast, Cultural Apothecary, or the full-on conspiratorial alt-right universe. This is just how the internet works. Eviane Leidig, the author of The Women of the Far Right: Social Media Influencers and Online Radicalization, sees a connection between SkinnyTok and tradwives in their “very strong visual representation of femininity.” Whether they mean to be or not, they have become part of the same pipeline. Algorithms grab your attention with lighter, relatable content while exposing you to more extremist viewpoints. The alt-right, she said, is great at making aspirational and seemingly apolitical content that viewers relate to. “This is a deliberate strategy that the conservative space has been employing over the last several years to capitalize on cultural issues as a gateway to radicalize audiences into more extreme viewpoints.”
观看更多此类视频,很快您将被引导到反Vax妈妈,或者The Turning Point USAWESWEESS ALEX CLARK的健康播客,文化上的药剂师或全面的阴谋式Alt-Right-Right Universe。这就是互联网运作的方式。埃维亚·莱迪格(Eviane Leidig)是《最右翼女性:社交媒体影响者和在线激进化》的作者,他认为Skinnytok和Tradwives之间的联系在“女性气质的非常强烈的视觉表现”中。无论它们是否是指,它们都成为同一条管道的一部分。算法以更轻,相关的内容吸引您的注意力,同时使您了解更加极端主义的观点。她说,另类权利非常擅长使观众与之相关的志向且看似非政治的内容。“这是一种故意的策略,在过去的几年中,保守空间一直在利用文化问题,以此作为将观众激进的门户进入更极端的观点。”
Two months ago, Evie Magazine, a right-wing publication that promotes traditional femininity, ran a profile of Schmidt: “Banned for Being Honest? Meet Liv Schmidt, the Girl Who Made ‘Skinny’ Go Viral.” The magazine had one of the biggest tradwife influencers, Hannah Neeleman of Ballerina Farm, on its cover back in November. The article about Schmidt focused on her being canceled and banned on a number of platforms for promoting thinness. “I don’t owe the internet a version of me that’s palatable,” Schmidt told the magazine. “If a girl bigger than me posted what I eat in a day, no one would care. But when I do, it becomes controversial. Why? Because I’m blonde, thin, young, and unapologetic.” Last year, Evie profiled Amanda Dobler, another SkinnyTok figurehead, whom it described as “TikTok’s skinny queen”—“both brutally honest and surprisingly sweet.”
两个月前,Evie Magazine是一本推广传统女性气质的右翼出版物,曾对施密特(Schmidt)进行了个人资料:“被禁止诚实吗?认识了使'skinny'的女孩莱夫·施密特(Liv Schmidt)散发出“瘦”。”该杂志在11月的封面上是最大的贸易影响者汉娜·尼尔曼(Hannah Neeleman)之一。有关施密特的文章的重点是被取消并在许多促进薄度的平台上被取消。施密特对杂志说:“我不欠互联网,这是可口的。”“如果一个比我大的女孩发布了我一天的饮食,没有人会在乎。但是当我这样做时,这会引起争议。为什么?因为我是金发,瘦,年轻,毫无歉意的。”去年,埃维(Evie)介绍了另一个Skinnytok Figuhead的Amanda Dobler,并被描述为“ Tiktok的Skinny Queen” - “既诚实又令人惊讶地甜美”。
The more the left has attacked Schmidt, the more the right has celebrated her. Bhat, who describes herself as progressive, said, “I think the left is deeply, deeply exclusive.” On the right, “you’re allowed to make dozens of mistakes and not be shunned. They say, ‘If the left doesn’t welcome you, we will.’ And they always do.”
左派攻击施密特的越多,右边就庆祝了她。Bhat描述自己是进步的,他说:“我认为左派是深深的排他性。”在右边,“您可以犯数十个错误而不要被驳回。他们说,‘如果左派不欢迎您,我们会的。”而且他们总是这样。”
You can’t deduce a political manifesto from someone’s Instagram followers, but it seems worth noting that Schmidt follows conservative figureheads including RFK Jr., Candace Owens, and Brett Cooper. When she posted about losing the paid-subscription feature on her Instagram, through which she had been making nearly $130,000 a month, according to AirMail, she tagged Joe Rogan. “She’s clearly trying to get her foot in the door with the alternatives,” Ali Ambrose, an influencer who critiques SkinnyTok, told me. (Ambrose struggled with an eating disorder for years, and says Schmidt’s content pushed her back into unhealthy habits.)
您不能从某人的Instagram追随者那里推断出政治宣言,但似乎值得注意的是,施密特跟随RFK Jr.,Candace Owens和Brett Cooper等保守的人物。据航空航空公司称,当她在Instagram上发布有关失去付费订阅功能的损失时,她每月赚了近13万美元,她标记了乔·罗根(Joe Rogan)。批评我的Skinnytok的影响者Ali Ambrose告诉我:“显然,她正试图与其他选择踏入大门。”(安布罗斯(Ambrose)多年来一直在饮食失调中挣扎,并说施密特(Schmidt)的内容使她陷入了不健康的习惯。)
Schmidt’s appeal does cross party lines, though. When I polled a politically diverse group of my own friends, my most conservative friends loved SkinnyTok. A number of my progressive friends did too; they just felt like they shouldn’t say so out loud.
不过,施密特的吸引力确实是跨党线路。当我对政治上多样化的我自己的朋友进行了调查时,我最保守的朋友喜欢Skinnytok。我的许多进步朋友也做了。他们只是觉得自己不应该这么大声说出来。
Schmidt has written that the Skinni Société is not “a starvation or extreme diet community.” She didn’t respond to multiple requests for an interview, but I spoke with Amanda Dobler, another SkinnyTok influencer. She remains on TikTok, though she has twice been temporarily barred from its Creator Rewards Program, through which she made some money for her videos, for not abiding by “community guidelines.” Dobler is almost 10 years older than Schmidt, so she attracts a slightly different demographic. I asked her if she considered herself a political person, or her content politically charged. She responded with a decisive no. “I’m up at 4 a.m. working my ass off, so I would say I’m the opposite of a tradwife,” she told me. “If people relate it to right wing, to left wing,” she said, “there’s only so much of the narrative that I can control.”
施密特写道,SkinniSociété不是“饥饿或极端饮食界”。她没有回应多个采访请求,但我与另一位瘦弱的影响者阿曼达·多布勒(Amanda Dobler)交谈。她仍然在蒂克托克(Tiktok)上,尽管她两次被暂时禁止其创造者的奖励计划,因为她不遵守“社区准则”。Dobler比Schmidt大10岁,因此她吸引了一个略有不同的人群。我问她是否认为自己是政治人,还是她的内容在政治上被指控。她以决定性的回应。她告诉我:“我是凌晨4点开始努力的,所以我会说我是贸易人的对立面。”她说:“如果人们将其与右翼与左翼联系在一起,那么我只能控制很多叙述。”
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Dobler is known for her directness. If anything, she’s even harsher online than Schmidt is. Right before our call, I scrolled through her TikTok profile: “You are killing yourself with the shit you eat. It’s disgusting. And you should feel shameful.” I briefly wondered if she’d be able to detect my own insecurities through the phone. But the Dobler I spoke with was approachable and friendly. I instantly liked her. I even opened up to her about the things I wish I could change about my body. “There’s nothing wrong with wanting to look a little better,” she said.
Dobler以其直接性而闻名。如果有的话,她甚至比施密特更苛刻。就在我们打电话之前,我浏览了她的Tiktok个人资料:“您正在用吃的狗屎来自杀。这令人作呕。您应该感到可耻。”我短暂地想知道她是否能够通过电话检测自己的不安全感。但是我与之交谈的Dobler平易近人且友好。我立即喜欢她。我什至向她开放了我希望自己可以改变身体的事情。她说:“想要看起来更好的没有错。”
Unlike a number of SkinnyTok influencers who only just entered the field, Dobler has been a fat-loss and mindset coach for six years. She talks about the importance of getting your nutrients instead of exclusively practicing restraint. She also pushes for a consistent workout routine, while others focus exclusively on their step count to burn calories and avoid bulking at the gym (SkinnyTok is a spectrum).
与许多刚进入该领域的瘦身影响者不同,多布勒一直是脂肪和心态的教练已有六年了。她谈到了获取营养的重要性,而不是仅仅实行克制。她还推动了一贯的锻炼程序,而其他人则只专注于他们的步骤数,以燃烧卡路里并避免在健身房散装(Skinnytok是一种频谱)。
I brought up the criticism that SkinnyTok content encourages young people to adopt disordered-eating habits. Dobler said that she doesn’t coach children, and that the majority of her clients are in their 30s through 50s. “I get it. It’s hard if you’re a parent seeing stuff online,” she told me. “But at the same time, there’s porn online; there’s a bunch of weird crap. I think that there is a lot of other censorship that should be going on.”
我提出了这样的批评,即Skinnytok内容鼓励年轻人采用无序的习惯。多布勒说,她不教孩子,大多数客户都在30多岁到50多岁。她告诉我:“我明白了。如果您是父母在网上看到东西,这很难。”“但是与此同时,在网上有色情片;有很多怪异的废话。我认为应该进行许多其他审查制度。”
When I asked why she was so harsh in her videos, she told me, “That’s the type of talk that I need. I wouldn’t say that I’m mean. I’m just blunt.” She added, “I’ve been in all of the situations that I’m talking through. So it’s not like I’m just up here scolding people.”
当我问她为什么在视频中如此苛刻时,她告诉我:“那是我需要的那种说话。我不会说我是刻薄的。我只是钝。”她补充说:“我一直在谈论的所有情况。所以这并不是说我只是在这里责骂人们。”
This echoed something Bhat had said to me: SkinnyTok’s ruthless tone rings true to many women because they’re already being so ruthless toward themselves. I’d be kidding myself if I said a woman’s body size doesn’t affect her prospects for dating, and even jobs. I would be lying if I said I did not desperately want to be slightly thinner—that I hadn’t wanted that from the moment I first watched my mother critique her own body in her bedroom mirror. I hesitate to admit that I’ve lost four pounds since I saw my first SkinnyTok video. I have not walked 40,000 steps a day, nor have I stopped eating after three bites. I’ve just stopped eating when I’m full, which, as silly as it sounds, I did learn from SkinnyTok.
这回应了Bhat对我说的话:Skinnytok的无情语气对许多女性来说是真实的,因为她们已经对自己无情。如果我说女人的身体大小不会影响她约会甚至工作的前景,我会在开玩笑。如果我说我不拼命地想变得更薄的话,我会撒谎 - 从我第一次看母亲在卧室镜子里批评自己的身体的那一刻起,我就不想了。我毫不犹豫地承认,自从我看到第一个Skinnytok视频以来,我已经减掉了四磅。我每天没有走40,000步,也没有三口后停止进食。我刚刚吃饱了,我刚刚停止进食,听起来很愚蠢,我确实从Skinnytok那里学习。
Still, I think it’s time to unsubscribe. The body of my dreams isn’t worth risking my health for. I have two nieces, ages 3 and 6. I hate the idea that somebody might one day tell them to shrink themselves. To them, a swimsuit is nothing but a promise that they’ll spend the afternoon running through the sprinkler. They’re perfect, and they dream of being bigger, faster, stronger—not smaller.
不过,我认为是时候取消订阅了。我梦dream以求的身体不值得冒险。我有两个3岁和6岁的侄女。我讨厌有人可能有一天告诉他们缩水的想法。对他们来说,泳衣不过是希望他们度过整个洒水器的下午。它们是完美的,他们梦想着更大,更快,更强壮 - 而不是较小。